- 1 month ago
- Use a spray stabilizer or starch to stiffen the fabric before cutting.
- Heavy pattern weights spread across the fabric will keep it from slipping around.
- Place tissue paper beneath the fabric to help keep slipping at a minimum.
- Silk pins are the best pins for the job. They have thin shafts and very sharp points which keep them from snagging the woven threads.
- Pin frequently along a seam.
- Sew using the correct type of needle and thread for the job. You’ll most likely need a thin needle and an all-purpose thread.
- French seams are the best for sheer fabrics as they encompass the raw edges and look professional.
- Sew a simple hem with the fabric folded over twice and stitched in place, or a rolled hem, which is perfect for thin, sheer fabrics.
- 1 month ago
Linen, made from flax fibers, has been used for centuries. Because it has a looser weave, pure linens allow air to pass quickly through the natural fibers and helps keep the skin cool. Moisture also evaporates quickly from linen garments, making it an ideal material for summer clothing. Lightweight linens often have a lovely drape and are more free flowing than cotton, but it is also notorious for wrinkling easily. If this is bothersome, look for a polyester blend. The synthetic fibers will resist wrinkling better and add some stability to the natural flax fiber.
Fine linens are quite smooth in texture, while poor quality linen will have a lumpy texture and irregular bumps. Be sure to test the drape and hand-feel of the fabric to ensure you purchase the correct weight for your garment. Lightweight linen works best for blouses and dresses. Medium to heavy weight linens are better from skirts, pants, jackets and some dresses.
- 1 month ago
/This is mainly aimed for cosplayers, but you obviously don’t need to be a cosplayer to find this helpful/
When shopping for fabrics, you can get that a lot look very similar in the same color, and you don’t know which is best. When buying any fabric, it’s an amazing habit to take a picture of the fabric with flash, and without - this is because when getting your picture taken at a con, a ‘photographer’ may use flash, or not, and you want your cosplay to look good in both!
For example, I didn’t know which black/gray I wanted to use with my white. You can see the middle fabric, didn’t look too bad with the flash:
But without, it looked jet black, and that’s not what I wanted:
My other two fabrics, they looked similar, but one was way too shiny with the flash, and the other looked just right for what I wanted:
Trust me, after the con when you find pictures of yourself is not the time to realize you used the wrong fabric.
(via learning-to-sew)Source: capnnugget
- 5 months ago
In my fashion text book I found a page dedicated to clothing care and I think a lot of you would be interested. There are quite a few stains that are likely pertain to lolitas. Enjoy!
Blood: Soak in cold water as soon as possible for 30 minutes or longer. Pretreat any remaining stain. Launder. For dried stains apply an enzymeor rub detergent on stain. Bleach if safe for fabric.
Candle Wax: Harden by placing in freezer or rubbing with ice cube. Scrape off with dull knife or fingernail. Place between several layers of paper towels and press with warm iron. Sponge remaining stain with prewash stain remover or cleaning fluid. Launder.
Catsup; Tomato Products: Scrape off excess with dull knife. Soak in cold water. Pretreat remaining stain. Wash, using bleach if safe for fabric.
Chocolate: Scrape off; then soak in cold water. Pretreat any remaining stain. Wash, using bleach if safe for fabric.
Coffee; Tea: Use enzyme presoak. Wash in hottest water safe for fabric.
Cosmetics: Rub detergent into area or use a prewash stain remover. If stain is stubborn, sponge with cleaning fluid. Launder.
Deodorant; Antiperspirant: Pretreat stain and wash in hottest water safe for fabric. Also see directions for perspiration stains.
Fruit; Fruit Juice: Soak in cold water. Pretreat remaining stain. Wash, using bleach if safe for fabric.
Grass: Rub detergent into area or use an enzyme presoak. Then wash using bleach and hottest water that is safe for fabric.
Gravy; Meat Juice: Scrape off excess with dull knife. Soak in cold water. Pretreat remaining stain. Wash, using bleach if safe for fabric
Grease; Oil: Scrape off or blot with paper towels. Use prewash stain remover or rub detergent into area. Launder. If stain remains, sponge with cleaning fluid and rinse.
Gum: Harden by placing in freezer or rubbing with ice cube. Scrape off with dull knife or fingernail. Pretreat remaining stain, and wash.
Ink: Spray with hairspray or sponge with rubbing alcohol. After a few minutes blot with paper towels. Rub detergent into stain, and wash. Alternative: use a prewash stain remover; then launder. (Some ballpoint, felt tip, and liquid inks may be impossible to remove.)
Mayonnaise; Mustard; Salad Dressing: Pretreat stain and wash in hottest water safe for fabric. Use chlorine bleach if safe for fabric. If grease stain remains, soak in warm water with a pretreat product, rinse thoroughly, and relaunder.
Mildew: Pretreat stain, and launder, using a chlorine bleach if safe for fabric. Alternative: soak in an oxygen- or all-fabric bleach and hot water; then launder. (Heavily mildewed fabrics may be permanently damaged.)
Milk; Ice Cream; Baby Formula: Soak in warm water. Launder in hottest water safe for fabric; use appropriate bleach. If stain remains, soak in pretreat product, rinse thoroughly, and relaunder.
Nail Polish: Place stain face down on paper towels. Sponge with nail polish remover (do not use acetone on acetate fabrics). Rinse thoroughly and launder in hottest water safe for fabric. (Nail polish may be impossible to remove.)
Paint: Do not let paint dry. For latex paint, rinse in cool water and launder. For oil-based paint, sponge with turpentine or mineral spirits and rinse with water. Launder. (Once paint is dry, it cannot be removed.)
Perfume: Soak in cold water. Pretreat remaining stain. Wash, using bleach if safe for fabric.
Perspiration: Use a prewash stain remover or enzyme presoak, or sponge fresh stain with ammonia. For old stain, sponge with white vinegar and rinse. Rub detergent into stain and wash in hottest water safe for fabric.
Rust: Wash with a rust remover, following manufacturer’s directions. Do not use chlorine bleach, it will intensify the stain.
Soft Drinks: Sponge or soak in cold water. Pretreat any remaining stain. Launder.
Unknown Stains: Pretreat stain and soak in cold water. Wash in cold water with detergent. If stain remains, rewash in warm water. If stain is still not removed, wash again in hot water.
(via pardonmybloomers)Source: manda-the-stars-shine-bright
- 5 months ago
Over the past two years or so I’ve collected a fair amount of sewing references and tutorials, applicable to both cosplay and regular garment sewing. They’ve helped me out a lot, so I thought other people might benefit from them too!
Sewing vocabulary http://buzzybeesworld.blogspot.com/p/glossary.html
About patterns (reading, altering, drafting) http://chicostume.org/handouts/Pattern_Reading.html
Introduction to patterns http://www.sewmamasew.com/2008/05/patterns-demystified/
About thread tension http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/4302/understanding-thread-tension
How to gather fabric http://www.thefamilyhomestead.com/gatherfabrictutorial.htm
How to pre-shrink wool http://off-the-cuff-style.blogspot.com/2010/08/tutorial-pre-shrink-woolfast-and-easy.html
Cutting slippery fabrics with tissue paper http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/2013/04/cutting-slippery-fabrics-with-tissue.html
Comparison of steel and spiral boning http://www.foundationsrevealed.com/articles/free/intermediate/99-experimenting-with-steel-boning-by-jenni-hampshire
Time-saving trick for a boned bodice muslin http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/2013/04/time-saving-trick-for-boned-bodice.html
How to French seam a dart http://buzzybeesworld.blogspot.com/2010/04/tricks-of-trade-french-seam-dart.html
Tailoring, Altering, and Fitting
About swayback alterations http://buzzybeesworld.blogspot.co.nz/2010/12/sway-back-alterations-my-analysis.html
About tailored jackets http://buzzybeesworld.blogspot.co.nz/2011/03/anatomy-of-tailored-jacket.html
How to tailor a coat front part 1 http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/2010/10/tailoring-your-coat-front-part-one.html
How to remove gaping from the neckline of a fitted dress http://bernieandi.wordpress.com/2012/07/13/pattern-alterations-how-to-remove-gaping-or-excess-fabric-from-neckline-of-a-fitted-dress/
Finishing Seam Allowances
How to finish seam allowances (without Serging) http://www.craftstylish.com/item/41979/try-these-techniques-for-perfectly-beautiful-seams
How to do a Hong Kong seam binding http://www.burdastyle.com/techniques/hong-kong-binding-seam-finish
Turned and stitched finished seam allowances (my personal favorite method) http://sewaholic.net/seam-finishes-turned-and-stitched/
Lining a sleeveless dress http://stitchywitch.wordpress.com/2010/06/21/tutorial-lining-a-sleeveless-dress/
How to draft a simple band sleeve http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/2011/11/drafting-simple-band-sleeve.html
How to sew a tulip sleeve http://sewchicpatterns.blogspot.com/2011/04/make-your-own-tulip-sleeve-tutorial.html
How to sew a two piece underarm gusset http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/2012/01/how-to-sew-two-piece-underarm-gusset.html
How to sew kimono sleeve gussets http://buzzybeesworld.blogspot.com/2011/02/kimono-sleeve-gussets.html
More on sewing kimono sleeve gussets http://didyoumakethat.wordpress.com/2011/07/06/kimono-sleeve-gussets/
How to sew an invisible zipper http://www.clevernesting.com/2009/06/invisible-zipper-tutorial-from-whipstitch/
Invisible zipper tutorial http://www.coletterie.com/tutorials-tips-tricks/tutorial-installing-an-invisible-zipper
Another invisible zipper tutorial http://byhandlondon.com/2012/06/21/inserting-an-invisible-zipper-the-definitive-tutorial/
How to do a hand-picked zipper http://sewaholic.net/a-hand-picked-zipper-progress-on-the-picnic-dress/?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+Sewaholic+%28Sewaholic.net+Newsletter%29
How to mitre a folded hem http://buzzybeesworld.blogspot.com/2010/03/tricks-of-trade-mitre-folded-hem.html
How to hem an inverted pleat http://buzzybeesworld.blogspot.co.nz/2012/03/tricks-of-trade-how-to-hem-inverted.html
How to sew a hand-rolled hem http://buzzybeesworld.blogspot.com/2011/06/getting-all-couture-y-hand-rolled-hem.html
How to sew an invisible hem http://buzzybeesworld.blogspot.co.nz/2012/03/tricks-of-trade-sewing-invisible-hem.html
Odds and Ends
Half circle skirts http://makingthings.andreatung.com/2009/07/circle-skirts-part-2.html
How to sew a full, gathered skirt part 1 http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/2009/08/sew-full-gathered-skirt-part-one-make.html
How to make a half slip http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/2009/07/make-vintage-inspired-half-slip-no.html
How to bind neck and armholes with bias tape http://suchtreasures.com/2008/06/14/applying-bias-tape-at-neckline-and-armhole-curves-as-binding/
Covered button tutorial http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/2010/02/covered-button-tutorial.html
Bound buttonhole tutorial http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/2010/10/bound-buttonhole-tutorial.html
Finishing bound buttonholes http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/2010/10/finishing-your-bound-buttonholes.html
How to make belts http://blog.caseybrowndesigns.com/2011/03/beltmaking-101/
How to do ruffles http://www.rufflesandstuff.com/2009/08/ruffles.html
How to do a convertible collar http://buzzybeesworld.blogspot.com/2011/01/tricks-of-trade-convertible-collars.html
Shaping a shirt collar http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/2013/03/shaping-shirt-collar.html
Lace/eyelet collar tutorial http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/2013/07/sewing-lace-or-eyelet-collar.html
Cutting checks and plaids, part 1 http://buzzybeesworld.blogspot.co.nz/2012/05/cutting-checks-and-plaids-part-1.html
How to sew checks/plaids to match perfectly http://buzzybeesworld.blogspot.co.nz/2012/05/sewing-checks-magic-pat-trick.html
How to attach bias tape with mitered corners http://sewtospeak.blogspot.com/2010/04/how-to-attach-bias-tape-with-mitered.html
How to use Swarovski crystals http://www.edelweisspatterns.com/blog/?p=2219
How to sew a 50s petticoat http://www.edelweisspatterns.com/blog/?p=850
Horsehair braid tutorial http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/2010/06/magic-of-horsehair-braid-little.html
How to sew with velvet http://www.fashion-era.com/velvets/velvet_sewing_tips.htm
How to make felt roses http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/2012/03/easy-felt-roses-tutorial-with-video.html
How to do a foundation for a fascinator hat http://hatstruck.blogspot.com/2010/02/fundations-for-my-cocktailfacinator.html
More tutorials http://buzzybeesworld.blogspot.com/p/tricks-of-trade.html
(via learning-to-sew)Source: galatea-cosplay
- 5 months ago
- 6 months ago
- 6 months ago
Let’s say you wanted to glue fabric to wood, but what do you use? What about glass to paper? This to That lets you choose two things you want to glue and lists what types of glue is best. (Because people have a need to glue things to other things!)
This is really great wow
(via starrcat)Source: stainedglassboots
Do you use a variety of press cloths when you sew?
A press cloth is a small piece of fabric placed above or below your garment when pressing. So why use a press cloth? In short, they can be used to add extra moisture (by dampening the cloth), or to protect the surface of your fabric from the iron. If you’ve ever developed water spots or shiny areas from a hot iron, you’ve experienced the sorts of problems press cloths guard against.
While a cotton or muslin all-purpose press cloth is invaluable, having a variety of cloths on hand can make your iron much more of a versatile tool. Here are a few options to consider:
- Medium-light cotton: Good for all purpose pressing, to protect your fabric from the iron’s moisture ad intense surface heat.
- Silk organza: One of my favorites, silk organza is a lightweight sheer fabric that lets you see what you are doing while you press. I like to use it for pressing corners, seams, and edges, or anywhere that I’d like to keep an eye on while I press.
- Heavy cotton and linen: These are useful for pressing heavier fabrics and for tailoring. The heavier fabrics also can hold more moisture, so they’re great for doing permanent pressing, like crisp tucks and pleats.
- Wool flannel: This soft fabric is great to use to protect wool garments, but also useful when you need to protect the texture of a fabric from being crushed. Its softness helps prevent flattening.
- Terry cloth: The pile of terry cloth helps prevent velvets from getting crushed under the iron.
These are just a few options for your press cloth collection. Experiment with your fabric scraps and keep adding to your own. You’ll find you can do much more with your iron!