Yamneko's Sewing Adventure

I don’t remember if I said what it was, but the Coletterie Snippet is from the email that...

Tue, 18 Jun 2013 12:45:11 -0400

I don’t remember if I said what it was, but the Coletterie Snippet is from the email that Coletterie sends out of various tips. I figured since it is email based, and I wasn’t aware of anyway that someone could go back and see previous ones, I thought it would be good to post them here for you all. (at least the ones I get) because I certainly learned a trick or two from them~

Coletterie Snippet: When to use underlining?

Tue, 18 Jun 2013 10:01:34 -0400

Are you familiar with underlining?

Underlining is akin to a sew-in interfacing. Depending on its purpose, it can be made from a variety of fabrics, from drapey to crisp, and from thin to heavy. It’s cut from the same pattern pieces as your garment, and then sewn as one piece along with the fashion fabric.

Here’s a quick checklist of when you might use an underlining:

To add warmth: Coats are often made with an underlining for added warmth. Flannel or wool is often used. Because the coat is then lined, the underlining is not visible from either the inside or the outside. It adds hidden warmth.
To stabilize: Let’s say you want to make a dress with a gorgeous silk crepe, but the dress is a bit tailored and the flowy, drapey quality of the crepe just won’t do. You can underline your silk with a range of stiffer fabrics to get a crisper feel. This is particularly useful if you want a dress with a tailored bodice but a more flowing skirt. Simply underline the bodice to change the body of the fabric!
To hide seams: Making a garment with a sheer fabric and don’t want your seams and darts to show through? Try underlining in place of (or in addition to) lining! It’s actually even easier and faster than lining, and will hide those seams.

You can use just about any fabric as an underlining. When choosing an underlining, keep in mind that it will change the drape and bulkiness of the fabric. The easiest thing to do is hold the potential underlining together with your fabric and examine the thickness and the way it drape. Then make your choice.

Coletterie Snippet: My fabric buying checklist

Mon, 17 Jun 2013 13:14:27 -0400

We’ve all done it. You think you’ve picked out just the right fabric for that dream sewing project, but when it’s done, you realize there was something about it that was just a bit wrong.

Perhaps the fabric was too light and flimsy. Perhaps it adds too much bulk to your body. Or perhaps it’s simply too hard to care for.

To help you out, here’s a handy checklist of questions I ask myself when contemplating a fabric purchase:

Weight: Is the fabric sheer? Will it need to be lined or underlined?
Weight: Is the fabric strong enough to withstand any stress on the seams (particularly important for fitted styles)?
Weight: Is the fabric heavy enough that thick, bulky seams might be a problem?
Drape: Does the fabric have enough body (stiffness) for the style (particularly important for fitted and tailored styles)?
Drape: Will the fabric flow and drape well (hold it up and see)?
Care: Will the fabric wrinkle easily when being worn (ball it up and test this out)?
Care: Will the fabric need special washing or care?
Color/Pattern: Is the fabric flattering with my body and complexion (use a mirror)?

This may seem a lot to remember, but if you boil it down to weight, drape, care, and color, you’ll find them easy to remember in time.

For more on choosing fabric, check out the fabric chapter in The Colette Sewing Handbook, and consider picking up a fabric guide such as Sandra Betzina’s More Fabric Savvy.

So with my sewing machine working again, I’ve decided to make the bloomers I had wanted to in...

Sun, 16 Jun 2013 21:25:28 -0400

So with my sewing machine working again, I’ve decided to make the bloomers I had wanted to in NJ. I had bought lace for it, but currently not sure if it’s with the bag of lace I found OR is in another bag that I don’t have a clue where it is. So I’m just going to go ahead and make do with what I have.

I’ll be doing Simplicity 2777 letter E, the short bloomers. (The front doesn’t show them for some reason? but they have 3 lengths of bloomers on the pattern). I traced it out on some tracing paper because I want to keep the pattern intact for another time (Like when I want longer ones or something). That took an hour-ish between actually tracing and wrestling with the paper/animals.

Shortly before we moved to California, my machine had decided in the middle of a project it...

Sun, 16 Jun 2013 16:51:29 -0400

Shortly before we moved to California, my machine had decided in the middle of a project it didn’t want to work properly anymore. The bobbin thread was just so messed up with no known reason or cause. I thought maybe all the fleece going through was a problem and cleaned it, but it still just didn’t want to work.

For the first time since moving, I finally decided to see if I could fix it. And it works just fine when I tested it. I’m glad it’s working, but so confused on why it wasn’t earlier. Now to figure out which bloomer pattern I was going to do and start it. Even though I will probably not really use them ever (whatever, snow pattern fleece bloomers will still be cute lounge wear)

spizzattura: Sewing 101 by *ShadowedPorcelain

Sun, 09 Jun 2013 10:40:50 -0400

spizzattura:

Sewing 101 by *ShadowedPorcelain

tawnyscostumesandcuriosities: Great printable pattern for...

Thu, 06 Jun 2013 13:11:18 -0400

tawnyscostumesandcuriosities:

Great printable pattern for novice machine sewers.

ima-princess: Tutorial for how to pattern high-waisted skirts!

Wed, 22 May 2013 11:45:06 -0400

ima-princess:

Tutorial for how to pattern high-waisted skirts!

Coletterie Snippet: The magic of glue basting

Mon, 13 May 2013 10:00:49 -0400

We have a tip today that came from reader Anna:

“I use glue sticks to ‘baste’ my hems before hand or machine sewing. The glue sticks are nontoxic, acid-free and wash out. This works especially well with narrow hems that are otherwise a little tricky. It also works well with bias bindings.”
-Anna E.
http://nattilyattired.etsy.com

I’ll add to Anna’s tip that glue sticks can also be helpful for basting a centered zipper. Simply machine baste the zipper opening closed, apply glue along the seam allowance of the opening on the wrong side, then lay your zipper down to temporarily glue it in place. Your zipper will stay in place while you stitch without tedious hand basting.

Coletterie Snippet: Bias Binding as Facing

Sun, 12 May 2013 10:01:01 -0400

The primary purpose of a facing is to create a clean finish on the edge of the garment, as well as provide stability. When a garment is made with a semi-sheer or sheer fabric, using bias strips instead of facing is ideal. Facings can be completely eliminated by using a bias strip. This works amazingly well with thin fabrics, but take care with thick fabrics because of bulk.

Follow our handy tutorial that explains how to make bias binding as a decorative or normal facing. While you’re checking out our blog, be sure to take a look at our freeSorbetto pattern which uses bias tape as a decorative facing.

Coletterie Snippets: Borrow this tool from the quilters!

Sat, 11 May 2013 10:00:59 -0400

Today’s tip comes from Stephanie, who has found some ingenious uses for a supply borrowed from the quilters:

“1/4” quilter’s tape is a pretty handy sewing doodad that I don’t often hear garment makers mention. It sticks to fabric firmly, peels off without leaving a residue, and (depending on the lint factor of your fabric) can be moved and re-stuck several times as needed. I first encountered quilter’s tape in a Jo-Ann’s zipper class, where we stuck it on as a topstitching guide. From there, I’ve used it for a lot of random tasks - marking/guiding buttonhole placement, lining up plaids, temporarily holding muslins in place when fitting on the body (alas, I have yet to master the yoga move that will let me pin my own side seams). It’s versatile and good to have around!”

-Stephanie M.
http://thimbledore.tumblr.com

Coletterie Snippet: Self-covered buttons

Fri, 10 May 2013 10:59:51 -0400

Self-covered buttons are a beautiful touch to a finished garment. They are highly customizable in both size and fabric. You get to choose whatever fabric you like! You can make matching buttons for your garment, choose a contrasting or patterned fabric, or even embellish them with embroidery or beads.

Look for self-covered buttons in kits or packages at your fabric store, which come in many sizes. They are shank buttons which have a metal loop instead of holes.

The kits you purchase come with tools and instructions for use. You simply use the provided template to cut a circle of fabric, cover the front of the button, then use the tool to press on the back. Here are a few tips to remember:

Stick to light to medium fabrics: Thick, heavy fabrics are very difficult to use with these kits, because the bulk of the fabric prevents the back from easily snapping on. If you’re using heavy fabric, test out a button first before spending time making all of them.

Prevent show-through: For light or loose weave fabrics, the silver shine of the metal button can sometimes show through. To prevent this, line your fabric with a second layer of a thin but opaque fabric, prefereably in a matching color.

Press evenly: When pressing the back of the button on, it can be hard to press evenly, which makes snapping the backs on a bit trickier. Try using the bottom of a thread spool on top of the tool and press that. This distributes pressure evenly and pops the back right into place.

Coletterie Snippets: The simple trick for marking darts

Fri, 10 May 2013 10:01:16 -0400

This week’s excellent tip was submitted by Salma, who has a fantastic way of marking darts without damaging patterns:

“My favorite tip is for transferring dart markings onto my fabric.

I do this by snipping one side of the dart (on the pattern) up to the apex point and folding over the flap to one side and then using a marking tool to trace out the dart. It’s so quick and easy and it keeps the integrity of the pattern piece just in case you change sizes (just simply tape the dart back down and begin again!).

I would like to think I’m the inventor of it but I’m sure others have thought of it too, it was just something I came up with after being frustrated by transferring dart markings. I’ve described the process here on my blog with pictures.”

-Salma A.
http://www.beautifullysewn.com

Thanks Salma!

Coletterie Snippets: A Different Type of Pressing Tool

Wed, 08 May 2013 18:21:26 -0400

This week, we have another reader-submitted tip, this one from Latrice:

“A good way to avoid having your seam edges from showing up on the right side of the fabric is by using a manila folder. Cut a long 1” - 2” strip, place it between your seam allowance and the fabric and press. No more seam edges showing up on the right side of your fabric.”
-Latrice S.
http://sewtell.wordpress.com

What are Fabric Grain Lines, Bias Lines, and Selvages?

Wed, 08 May 2013 12:40:44 -0400

momokurumi:

What Is Grain?

Fabric has a grain. What does this mean? Well, like many other things, such as hair, wood, fingernails, and even meat, there is a certain structure within a substance called a grain, and knowing how to use it can help you a lot. For instance, cutting meat perpendicular to the grain creates sharper blockier pieces instead of globby bits. You don’t usually brush UP your hair because there are little scales that grow DOWN your hair. And people may tell you that you should file your nails or sand a piece of wood in the same direction instead of back and forth because it’s more productive and less damaging.

Even meat has a grain!

Grain Lines In Fabric

A fabric grain is created by the fibers itself. In virtually all fabrics (and there are exceptions), fibers are woven perpendicular to each other, like a grid. There are vertical and horizontal lines. On most fabrics you can find a selvage: this is the finished edge of the fabric, where it cannot unravel, and can be identified by having a different texture, and sometimes different color. There may be words or letters printed here, and oftentimes little dots appear as well. The selvage is a very very important guide when it comes to knowing the grain of the fabric. The selvage always runs the length of the fabric. Perpedicular to it are the horizontal fibers, and that is the width. The fabric cannot be wider than the selvage to selvage- that is the width that remains constant for that fabric. Fabrics come in many widths. However, the length is your yardage- when you order three yards of fabric, that’s three yards in fabric length, plus the however many inches in width that the fabric comes in.

The fibers that run the length of the fabric are called warp. The fibers that run the width and are perpendicular to the selvage is called the weft or filling. If you go diagonally on the fabric, that is the bias. A true or perfect bias is half way between the warp and the weft, or is at a 45 degree angle.

Why Do Grain Lines Matter?

Now, you may be asking yourself, why does any of this matter? It’s just a bunch of mumbo jumbo, I just want to cut my fabric, it looks the same in every direction. Hold your horses, even if it looks the same, it most certainly is not the same in every direction. For some fabrics that have obvious patterns or textures, if you lay your pattern pieces and cut in any way you wish then when you put it together, the patterns may not line up. If you’re making a pinstripe jacket, for example, you wouldn’t want your sleeve to have horizontal stripes and your jacket to have vertical ones. Unless it is supposed to be that way, but usually that isn’t the case, and you’d still have to think about that before cutting the fabric.

Cutting on the Grain Lines

On your storebought pattern pieces there are straight lines with arrows called grainlines. This should nearly always be placed parallel to the selvage when cutting fabric unless you have a specific reason to do otherwise. Here’s the meat and potatoes folks, if you do NOT do this you are going to risk giving yourself some major headaches later on. Some fabrics that have two way stretch, such as certain denims are best used if you make sure the stretch goes horizontally on the leg to make movement and fit more comfortable. Similarly, if you mix up your stretch direction and cut jacket pieces in varying grain lines, when you sew, some pieces may stretch and not line up when the corresponding piece does not stretch, making it difficult to match pieces correctly. Most storebought patterns will give you a guide, based on the width of your fabric, in which you can arrange your pieces so as to waste as little space/fabric as possible.

Utilizing the Bias Cut

And the bias cut? Oh the bias cut. On almost all fabrics, the bias cut stretches. It has the most give, and the most stretch. Try it on a non-stretch fabric- pull it vertically, horizontally, and then diagonally. The weave should stretch only on the diagonal, either slightly or quite a bit actually. While cutting ont he bias can mess you up if you’re trying to make a simple blouse or jacket, this can be very helpful for certain garments and is used a lot in haute couture to improve the garment fit and drape. It reduces drag lines and also makes a more comfortable fit, but since you’re cutting the piece diagonally, it tends to take up more space and thus more fabric. Some full length dresses need TWICE as much fabric than they would if they were cut lengthwise, equalling several yards needed in fabric, up to 6 or even 9.

There’s also a magical thing called bias tape. You can buy this at most sewing stores, and also make your own, and as the name implies, it is cut on the bias.

While I don’t expect everyone to mind their grain lines (even I cheat sometimes if it’s urgent), it helps a lot to know, especially if you are using a fabric with a more visual grain, such as stripes, or with a certain print or texture. So if you were anything like me, back when I would cut off the ugly selvage, and totally ignore the grain lines and just try to fit as many pattern pieces together like tetris blocks that I could, now you know how to use those things to your sewing and cosplaying advantage!

Coletterie Snippets: Turning Loops

Tue, 07 May 2013 10:01:10 -0400

I saw on this website how to use a bobby pin as a loop turner in my sewing. It works great! When I have my tube of fabric (wrong side out) I make a little snip on one end - about 1/2” away from the raw edge. Open the bobby pin and place one ‘prong’ on top and one on bottom of the raw edge then tuck both ‘prongs’ inside the slit you cut so the bobby pin now slides into the tube, pulling the raw end after it. Then just shimmy the bobby pin through your fabric tube until it comes out the other end.
-Sallie B.
http://www.sallieoh.blogspot.com

Coletterie Snippets: Understanding Seam Allowance

Mon, 06 May 2013 10:00:59 -0400

The whole concept of a seam allowance is pretty simple. Seam allowance is the distance between the seam line (where you stitch) and the edge of the fabric (sometimes called the “raw edge”).
Here are a few things to know about working with seam allowances:

For most American home sewing patterns, the standard seam allowance is ⅝”. European patterns vary a great deal, so it’s best to always check the instructions.

Some sewing patterns, particularly European ones, have no seam allowance included. In this case, you must add it in yourself. Again, be sure to check the instructions if you’re not sure. My favorite method of adding seam allowances is this one from Pam at Off The Cuff.

Use the guides on your sewing machine to help keep your seam allowances at exactly the right width.

Sometimes, you might want to walk two paper pattern pieces to see how well they fit together. When you do this, be aware that you must match them up along the seam line, not the edge of the seam allowance. Two pattern pieces may fit together perfectly along the seam line, but not at all along the raw edge of the seam allowance. Take note especially if the seams are curved.

Colleterie Snippets: Organize your buttons

Sun, 05 May 2013 10:00:59 -0400

Do your buttons look a mess like this? Evelyn E. has a great suggestion for organizing your buttons:

“I use fishing tackle boxes to organize buttons and other notions. The boxes come with removeable dividers, which makes them ideal for holding all sized buttons. I’m no longer sorting through my button jar for 8 matching buttons!”

We found some really inexpensive options online, like this 4-tier version for just a bit over 20 bucks.

Coletterie Snippets: Fitting without stabby, pokey pins

Sat, 04 May 2013 14:03:28 -0400

One of the hassles of fitting clothing on your own body is wiggling around all the sharp pins.

Pins have a tendency to fall out when you’re getting your muslin on and off, or else they stab your body or poke your fingers.

An easier way to go is to use safety pins to pin out excess fabric, or hold openings closed. You’ll not only avoid poking yourself, but you’ll be able to get in and out more easily without losing pins all over the floor.

When fitting with safety pins, it would be ideal to have someone else help out pinning in those tricky, hard to reach areas. If you don’t have an assistant at hand, try marking the area you need pinned with a fabric pen. Remove the garment and place pins where you’ve marked. Try the garment on again to see if the placement is correct.

There you go, no more pinpricks! Or fewer of them, anyway.

Coletterie Snippets: Tracing

Thu, 04 Apr 2013 10:09:02 -0400

Colored pencils and markers are ideal tools for tracing patterns.

Due to the nature of graphite, pencils often puncture delicate tracing papers, so using soft colored pencils helps. Be sure to use markers that aren’t so ink heavy that they bleed through the paper onto the pattern. You can also use the colors to create your own alteration code. Draw the pattern in one color and use different colors for each of your changes. This is especially helpful if you frequently make adjustments.